Below is a transcript of the published video.
teller: When Doc Martens first appeared in the UK in 1960, they were work boots and cost less than $3.
Currently, shoes bearing the inscription “Made in England” can cost $225. So what has changed? Why are these shoes so expensive now?
Dr. Martens shoes are a style icon that is over 50 years old. They've been worn by everyone from Kanye West and Cardi B to the Dalai Lama and even Pope John Paul II, when the Vatican placed a request for the iconic eight-row perforated shoes in black, white and navy blue.
Dr. Shoes may not be… Martens are the most expensive shoes on the market, but their price and use have undergone quite a radical transformation. The company producing it has also changed dramatically. From a local family factory, it has become a global fashion brand owned by a private equity fund.
Since 2014, the price of shoes has increased by approximately 25%. Sales grow year after year, and in 2018-2019 profits increased by 70%.
So how did the company go from its humble beginnings to producing 7 million pairs of shoes annually?
Before Dr. Martens shoes gained their sinister image, they weren't cool. Shoes with an air cushion on the heel were invented in 1945 and later patented by Dr. Klaus Martens – a German military doctor who had injured his ankle in a skiing accident and was looking for a comfortable alternative to shoes with a hard leather sole.
Initially, the shoes were sold to factory workers throughout England.
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The market for this new shoe technology was not just rock singers or skinheads, who might relate to the history of these shoes, but older women who needed comfortable and practical shoes.
At one point, they were advertised as the perfect garden shoes.
When the technology was transferred to the United Kingdom in 1960, the famous shoe was first created. Shoes with an air cushion in the heel were licensed to Griggs of Northampton, and this is how the 1460 model was created.
Added distinctive stitching and a distinctive heel loop, the shoes were sold to factory workers throughout England.
At the time, these shoes cost only $3. Even after taking inflation into account, it's currently just over $50.
We tested whether there was a difference between new shoes made in Asia, more expensive shoes made in England, or vintage shoes from 30 years ago.
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They were cheap, durable, and perfect for postmen, policemen, and workers who were on their feet all day.
The shoes were quickly adopted by every new counterculture movement and became a staple of glam, punk, skinhead, ska, and gothic styles, among many others. However, the place of Dr. Martens shoes in fashion was not always the same.
After the boom in the 1990s, the shoes became outdated and the company struggled, nearly going bankrupt in the early 2000s.
The industry was shrinking and the costs of producing shoes in England were rising. In 2002, a pair of Doc Martens cost about $87. After taking inflation into account, it's about $140.
Northamptonshire was once the capital of English shoemaking. In the mid-19th century, more than 2,000 people worked in the area. Shoemakers.
However, with many of them struggling, most of the companies went bankrupt or moved their production abroad, and today only a little more than 30 remain.
Doc Martens followed suit by moving production to Asia. The company still produces shoes at its factory in Northamptonshire, but this now represents only around 2%. Total production.
Doc Martens claims that this move did not change the way shoes were produced at all. We wanted to see if there was actually a difference between new shoes made in Asia, more expensive shoes made in England, or old shoes that were there before the move.
To find out, we spoke to someone who has taken apart several pairs of these shoes.
Weston Kay, owner of Rose Anvil Weston: My name is Weston Kay, I'm a professional leather worker and I show you how to cut shoes in half on YouTube.
The production methods for Asian and Made in England shoes are really similar. Many of the elements themselves in the interior or the way the shoes are stitched are identical. Their design is similar.
They still sew the sole to the top. Significant differences between older shoes and newer shoes can only be noticed if you cut them in about half or if you wear them long enough.
Dr. The classic Martens had a much better midsole which added a lot of comfort, they also had a wooden shaft and the leather was much better. Therefore, they are more durable, more comfortable and provide support to the foot.
Newer shoes simply have worse materials. I wouldn't describe them as very durable or long-lasting shoes, but many people buy them just because they are Dr. Martens shoes.
They are comfortable and will last a long time, so most people will be happy with them.
teller: We have contacted Doc Martens regarding these comments.
Their spokesperson told us: “We have not changed any materials or manufacturing processes that could affect the quality of our products. Specification changes have been made to improve our premium products and provide a better user experience.”
“We removed the upper in 2000 after realizing it did not improve the structural integrity of our shoes.”
“In 2005, our inner padding was changed from felt to a better quality material. The 90s boots in question, along with our current range made in England, feature 1.8mm thick leather, while our main range has 1.6mm thick leather.
Regardless of the material, Dr. Martens' style has endured.
Since 2002, the brand's popularity has increased rapidly. The countercultural image that made her so famous is something that continues to this day, despite her expansion from a small-town British shoemaker to a global icon.
For fans, these shoes can be a real obsession. Over the years, the company has grown from producing one model of shoes in 1960 to producing approximately 250 models each year.
As popularity increased, competition also increased. In recent years, Doc Martens has filed lawsuits against companies like Urban Outfitters, Vans, Boohoo and others in an attempt to protect the distinctive design of its shoes.
In 2014, the family sold the company and it was bought by private equity fund Permira.
Since the acquisition, the price of shoes has increased by approximately 25%, and in 2018-2019 profits increased by 70%. This was largely due to the newfound success of vegan shoes.
While the shoes have gone from English workers' shoes to international fashion icons, their style has endured, and their loyal fans haven't gone anywhere.
Translated by: Piotr Nalaszek
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